The treatments for the finished garment include all of the dyeing and finishing processes that follow after the manufacturing of the product.
At Pespow, we have the know-how to perform a wide range of dye treatments: from mono-fabric dyes to mixed compositions (cotton-nylon etc..). For a composite product, where various processes are needed depending on the materials, the process is more complex but also more interesting in terms of the final yield and research.
The treatments for the finished garment may generate different responses, reaching in some cases to affect the reproducibility of the garment on a large scale. Our history has made us experts in the management of these processes and in the resolution of typical problems in relation to each garment.
Seam taping and bonding processes are designed to eliminate protrusions making the inside of the garment simple and sleek.
The standard heat welding process involves the use of plastic (polyurethane) but the most fine finishes are made with materials combined with the interior of the garment.
At Pespow, manufacturing originally designed for a technical use is reinterpreted and employed in the craftsmanship of more formal garments to ensure greater protection from atmospheric agents.
The welding and Mack manufacturing ensure a better presentation and unrivaled stylistic impact by combining fabrics which render the garment water-repellent as well as create interesting color combinations with minimal use of sewing.
Mack manufacturing is a complement to heat welding and serves to confer greater resistance to structural tensions made by the body on the accessory elements of the garment, such as on the neck and pockets.
The peculiarity of Pespow is in reinterpreting the welding and Mack manufacturing style, born both for a technical use as well as for the realization of a specific product by combining them with each other and with other processes starting from a product concept. We create personalized couplings that render ordinary materials one-of-a-kind, giving customers the opportunity to try out their own ideas and create unique products on the market.
The transmigration of concepts creates an extraordinary variety of versatile products, this is why Pespow enthusiastically welcomes unusual proposals for product concepts and the processing of materials in order to achieve unique combinations and curious compositions.
The double face manufacturing is an artisanal craft. With this technique, very fine fabrics are made ostensibly devoid of seams and more soft and resistant in the stitching. The union of the fabrics also allows for elegant color combinations. In Italy the hand-made double face has always been very present, especially in Lombardy and Sicily.
Present in the hand-made double face concept is an aesthetic value, in addition to its artisanal value, given the elegance of the fine stitching and finishing, both interior and exterior for an extremely clean effect. The effect is an extremely clean fabric which is processed without adding any additional elements.
The hand-made double face manufacturing has always been employed in the world of classic apparel and is therefore unusual in the fashioning of garments with sporty details. In line with the attitude of blending techniques, materials and concepts, Pespow is currently studying how to bring the hand-made double face technique to the realm of sportswear.
Pespow was founded on the basis of a leather apparel company and derives its current name from "Pelle (Italian for leather) Sportswear."
The artisans in the world of leather that have been associated with the company for years have helped to keep alive a confident know-how in this field, allowing the creation of unique leather-fabric combinations.
For this reason, we are able to offer customers a leather manufacturing service for coat components such as detachable shearling hood inserts, wool hemmed hoods, fur lining, etc.
Pespow carries out independent research in the sphere of product composition. Through the collaboration with several designers, Pespow creates products that do not translate into specific projects for a particular brand but which rather serve as representative models for a certain category of garment.
The expert advice in the design phase is always handled with great care not to interfere with the activity carried out by the style department of the customer’s brand. Its function is to form exemplary garments, the result of various adjustments and research, so that the designers have the opportunity to glean or verify the yield of materials, treatments and techniques on real and visible product proposals. This research can easily be turned into individual items, collections or private labels.
In order to manage a wide range of high quality products whose craftsmanship requires diverse skills and the ability to operate a blend of materials and techniques, it is necessary that the development phase of the product takes place within the company.
Along with the design phase, operations modeling, prototyping and fitting are managed and executed by us and our partners in full coordination with the place of final garment production. Only then can Pespow guarantee its clients that the most delicate phases of product creation are performed with an internal know-how and the ability to closely follow the development.
The actual production of the garments takes place in Italy, other parts of Europe and Asia in the best suited factories. The choice of partners and of the production location is a strategic choice that addresses the assets, production volumes and product complexity of each project.
Pespow makes sure that research and product management are always closely connected to the production stage. This ensures the reproducibility of the work on a large scale and the maintenance of high quality standards throughout the world.
Pespow ensures quality throughout the chain of production thanks to a product control carried out in three phases ('in line', 'half on' and 'before shipment') as well as to a network of trusted partners built up over time.
Pespow follows the customer step by step through the necessary procedure to certify the correspondence of raw materials with existing regulations, and to perform the necessary checks and tests on the finished product.
This garment is a mix of materials, processes and techniques. A parka with a waxed canvas exterior, flannel and nylon detachable interior with down filling and sheepskin inserts, detachable hood, internal drawstring, and windbreaker.
A pea coat made of wool yarn dyed with a detachable down interior. A classical wool coat that takes on a technical connotation, for a classic sportswear revisited with an appealing mix. The peculiarity of the garment is in the fabric. It is created by Pespow through bounding a loden wool with a polyester interlock jersey.
The wool is waterproof and thanks to the seam taping it is possible to produce the interior in different colors, atypical for a loden wool.
An outerwear piece from the Ten C collection with a detachable down interior. The same concept of the garment is rendered in two different models: one with a felt hood and the other with a shearling hood.
The garment is subjected to a dyeing process which brings together three components at three different stages: the dyeing of polyester and nylon; dyeing of nylon and down; dyeing of wool and felt.
The Ten C models are made with a single, extremely soft fabric similar to jersey but heavier, composed of polyester microfibers. The jackets are dyed with special procedures due to the technical complexity of processing this material. The dyeing process of the Ten C models significantly reduces the length of the fabric, but at the same time contracts the fibers, favorable for waterproofing.
This particular dyeing process which characterizes the entire Ten C line is executed in Italy with special equipment and is the result of experience and research conducted within the company.
Three models in different fabric combinations: wool bonded to polyester, for a more classic piece; wool and cotton reps, for a more rugged piece; wool and cotton lamier for a linen effect. The three fabric combinations are bounded respectively with a glossy polyurethane film that gives a glimpse at the structure of underlying material. They are then dyed in a single solution or through a double dyeing process according to the materials, respective dyeing environments, as well as the presence or absence of accessory elements.
The original material of this model is canvas. The garment is first washed to remove any residue and in order soften the material. The black polyurethane coating is done by hand after covering the garment with a spray or through immersion.
The garment is then heated in an oven to fix the polyurethane and is sponged by hand. Finally, it is washed softly to clean the garment of any residual impurities and further washed with rubber balls, depending on the vintage effect you want to achieve. The rubber balls are an alternative to the classic stone wash which is made with pumice stone for denim.
Compared to the stone, the balls do not consume during treatment and perform a more uniform abrasion. This type of washing, slow and complex, is excellent in terms of product yield which takes the form of a vintage garment.
A garment whose uniqueness lies in its elegance and simplicity. Thanks to the hand-made double face, the two fabrics are not glued together but connected at a few points. In addition, the garment has no additional elements or borders.
The peculiarity of this garment is that thanks to Mack manufacturing, elements of the seam are not visible on the interior pockets and inside of the placket. The Mack technique was created in order to make a more weather-proof fabric for outerwear designed for outdoor sports, reinterpreted by Pespow in order to create garments with clean lines without sacrificing the strength of the overall structure.
2008 saw Pespow as the single partner of fashion designers Alessandro Pungetti and Paul Harvey, joined together to create Ten C, a project destined to become a niche icon in the world of fashion.
Seven models are made for Ten C, starting from the archetypes of male sportswear, using a single fabric from an extremely soft texture, dyed and waterproofed through ad hoc studied techniques. The models are matched with detachables of different natures and consistency, ensuring garment flexibility through changing seasons.
The Ten C garments are manufactured entirely in Italy in order to better manage the complexity of construction and to manifest a design culture that is attentive to product particularities. Ten C is aimed at an audience looking for garments which are not susceptible to seasons and trends.
The brand Chat C win was born in 2009 to translate the experience of Pespow into a complete and stand-alone project, able to follow the life path of a garment from design to distribution.
Starting from Anglo-American sources of inspiration, the design for the Chat C win garments is to enhance the materials, highlighting often unusual processing techniques and treatments for sportswear most in vogue at the time of launch.
The motto of Chat C win, "The world seen from another point of view," expresses the philosophy of the project: the fusion of trial solutions in order to set the designs apart from fads while courageously combining materials with an elegant stylistic consistency. The garments have a technical nature and are made from natural materials, no black color, almost no nylon and polyester and ironic reinterpretations of iconic pieces.
The brand name is a reference to Bruce Chatwin, British writer and traveler known for his ambivalent and borderline character. Chatwin is a symbol of the journey understood as a path towards discovering, where one fuses with what they encounter along the way.
From these suggestions, Chat C win sportswear is for urban life: a product for the urban traveler who enters and leaves the city, an ambivalent garment whose use migrates continuously from one dimension to another. This element of ambiguity is present in all products through the fusion that guides them into form.
The Archive 56 collection summarizes the independent research conducted by Pespow to experiment with new possible product developments. The garments are created first through a historical analysis of the archetypes of sportswear.
The models are designed with respect for their original function, often designed to withstand difficult weather conditions. The garments have been updated in fit and materials, and stylistically interpreted according to the idea at the base of our entire reseach: that of creativity and the evolution of the product and use of materials. Archive 56 is an ongoing collection in the making for internal use only, a continuous incentive for inventiveness and experimentation.